Days : I’ve lost track
Nicaragua : San Juan del Sur, Isla de Ometepe, León
Travel companions : me, myself and I
I’ve spent the last few weeks travelling all over Nicaragua by chicken bus (old American school bus), microbus (souped up minivan), in the back of pickup trucks (my favourite), ferry and horseback. I crossed the land border at Peñas Blancas after travelling by bus across Costa Rica.
This is a very easy border crossing – “Coyotes” (money changers) are waiting to change any spare cash and the only question I was asked was ‘Do you need a bus? Or maybe a Nica boyfriend?’ – it felt good to be back!
First stop was the surf town of San Juan del Sur. This was the only place I didn’t like much, mainly because of the influx of backpackers seeking the Sunday Funday pub crawl and the sweltering 90+ degree heat.
I stayed in Balgüe, at a lovely new hostel called La Urraca Loca run by a Spanish couple in the countryside surrounded by little farms. I even arrived in time for a sunset swim.
Ometepe is stunning, possibly my favourite place in Nicaragua. It’s considered a sacred land – I visited some ancient petroglyphs at Finca Magdalena. There are over 2000 boulders with these mysterious markings, which may be over 3000 years old.
At the hostel I met Liat from Switzerland, Andreas from Italy and Andrea from Germany. One night we went to the local circus which had set up camp nearby. It cost about 50p and was probably the weirdest thing I’ve ever seen – a goat that refused to walk across a plank of wood, a clown called Earthquake and an old man who seemed to run the show. We climbed up to the top of the rickety seating structure only to climb straight back down when we realised how rickety it was. Nicaraguans apparently have no problem half sitting half squatting for hours!
Later on Earthquake changed outfits and did some acrobatics on an old mat, prevented from flying into us only by the old man who was poised to catch him. Needless to say I laughed all night long and the Spanish came in handy. An unexpected highlight was the farmyard chickens and dogs that just wandered around as they fancied. I only have one video clip that isn’t offensive to anyone or anything!
I took a very friendly local bus for about 20p to the national spring Ojo de Agua on my own and spent all my money on local jewellery such that I could only afford a coconut and plate of fried plátano for lunch. There was no need for the bus fare back as it didn’t turn up so I had to hitch in the back of a pickup with some others – it’s just the way it is here!
Ometepe is definitely on my list of places to return. After a few days Liat, Andreas and I traveled North together to León – it’s much easier travelling in a group as you can actually leave your bag and go to the bathroom!
León, a student city, former capital and Sandinista stronghold, was pivotal in the Revolution of ’79. It was the first city to be liberated. Most people here fought and this was a war where women and even Nuns were picking up guns. ‘A free country or death’ was Sandino’s stance.
Nicaraguan history is fascinating – I’m at risk of becoming a bore who bangs on about the war but this country has been trampled by one dictator after another. First the Spanish and then the English took what they could get. Then follows a period of dictatorships until the FSLN (Sandinista National Liberation Front) overthrew dictator Anastasio Somoza. Then the American Regan administration funded the ‘Contra’ war in the 1980s via the sale of weapons to Iran (Google Oliver North if you’re interested!). The International Court of Justice ruled in favor of Nicaragua and against the USA, but the USA didn’t accept the verdict.
Anyone visiting León should go to the History of the Revolution museum – this is top of my Nicaraguan experience. We met ‘The Beast’, who fought in the Revolution. They used nicknames – he showed us a photo of his friend who he only knew by pseudonym. The museum is itself is the former dictator’s Palace of Communications, taken over by the Revolutionaries and riddled with bullet holes. Inside is a crude collection of photographs and newspaper clippings propped up on the floor.
I have to thank La Mariposa Spanish School – one of the Revolutionaries shows you around the museum one on one and personally explains the articles, in Spanish (for over 2 hours).
If you don’t speak Spanish in central America yes you can get by – but you only get a fraction of the big picture. The chance to talk with someone (twice imprisoned) who went into dictator Somoza’s office at the end and drank his whiskey is priceless. Many taxi drivers also told me their experiences and loss of family members.
The visit culminated with a walk on the roof to point out the real life locations of key spots such as the HQ of the national guard. This alone was worth the entry fee of a couple of dollars.
Another rooftop highlight of León is the Cathedral – we climbed up to the top and were allowed to walk around as long as we didn’t ring the bell. There’s a fine for doing this which I thought was Vale La Pena (worth it) but the security guy said he would lose his job and go to prison and never get married or have children, so maybe not.
My next stop would entail a day of chicken buses north to the lesser visited fishing village of Jiquillo following recommendations from fellow students at La Mariposa…. Saving that for next time!
Maz On The Road 